Caring for your pond should be fun and easy.  We can help you achieve this goal. 

Pond size: To calculate approximate gallons per pond;   *Take W x L x D x 7.48 = approximate gals in your pond.  Take off 100 to 500 gals depending on rocks, plants, and any other displacement material(s) that you have in your pond body.  This will give you approximate volume of water in your pond. 

Each water treatment will be addressed in this care sheet that I use to keep your pond balanced and looking great!  Please note that each pond is different due to an unlimited number of reasons; location, size, plant load, fish load (type), shade or the lack of, how clean you keep the cleanout screens, and other factors. 

When you clean your bio / media mats please use only pond water!     The most important reason for this is the Good Bacteria lives in these mats and you have put in time and money in creating the eco-cycle in your pond so that it will take care of itself.   Also, the chlorine, chloramines, and any other things that are not good for your fish and plants will be part of the tap water and will kill all “good bacteria” in your mats. 
Note:  The media mats in your bio box needs only to be swished 2 times a year.  The skimmer mat can be swished once every 2 months (unless you have a number of trees around your pond,  you might want to swish once each month).  Clean the leaf net as needed.

Stress Coat:  This water treatment will remove chlorine and chloramines from your tap water or well water, provides a slime coat that replenishes, and also provides Aloe Vera that eases stress in your fish.  (THIS IS THE # 1 WATER TREATMENT FOR YOUR POND)
Add ½ c per 500 gals each time you add H2O or fish.  If you think your fish are looking      stressed, adding stress coat will help.

AquaClearer Extreme:  Is a dry or wet bacteria which contains bacteria and enzymes that are scientifically blended and tested to produce maximum results in natural ponds.  These little bacteria live in your gravel, rocks, and rough surfaces and are effective at reducing sludge, uneaten fish food, fish waste, and excess nutrients that cause poor water quality and clarity.  Note:  If your pond doesn’t have gravel or stones covering the liner, the bacteria has a more difficult time producing enough to have an effect on your pond’s balance.  I have also noticed when cleaning a pond that does not have gravel or stones, that there is more sludge on the bottom of the pond.  
Add:  1 T per 500 gals each time the weather   changes hot / cold.  If your pond is new  please add 1 T each week for 3 weeks, then each month until your pond cycles on its own.  ( You will know when this occurs by the nice black/green look to your rocks where your water runs and the algae is not hard to keep under control.

Barley: Acts quickly, allowing the naturally occurring organisms and enzymes to decompose lignins in the barley, releasing humic substances (organic carbon) into the water providing clarity.  Bales are the easiest to use and provide results for three to four months.  Note: Expect water to turn a tea color, this is the result of the breakdown of lignins.  This will clear up in a few weeks.  Barley will also buffer pH and reduce phosphorous levels in your pond water.  Just add to your skimmer out of the net.  If you do not have a skimmer lock in w/ stones near the moving water. 
Add:  1 lb bale up to 500 gals about every 3 months. If you have pellets used 1 lb per 500 gals.  Make sure you use a bag to hold the pellets.

Carbon: Activated Carbon has long been used for filtration media when super clean water is desired.  Carbon has the natural ability to absorb high amounts of organic solids.  It has also been shown to have the ability to remove tannins that cause “ tea - colored” water.  Note:  If you use any medication for your fish, remove the carbon first.  After medicating your fish for 14 days you can replace the carbon.  It has also been my experience that if your carbon is heated to a boil it will bring back the life of carbon. 
Add: 1 ½ c for every 100 gals= 5 c per 500 gals every 3 to 4 months.  You will have to place carbon in a bag to keep in place. Place in skimmer or where the waterfall is running. 

Pond Salt: Is essential for fish health.  Koi and goldfish need salt to control their electrolyte balance.  Salt also maintains the natural slime coating that fish need to fight off fungus and disease.  Salt improves disease recovery and reduces fish stress.
Add: 1 lb of salt per 100 gals = 5 lb for 500 gals  Note: 5 lbs per 500 gals is only added w/ new ponds or completely Base Cleaned

pH Control:   I have found that in Florida it is not easy to control or maintain the pH in our natural ponds.  It is my professional opinion that keeping the pond’s condition pH levels between 7.5 to 8.5 is good for the fish and plants.  Please know I am not a bio chemist and do not want keeping pH in your pond to become a huge frustration.  If your pond is new or no older than 90 days you need not  worry about your pH other than adding Minus pH once a month and use 7.5 stabilizing tabs.
Add:  4 oz per 500 gals (morning only) Wait 3 days and add another 4 oz per 500 gals and if the pH is still high add another 4 oz in 3 days.  Then add three (3)  7.5 Stabilizer Tabs per 500 gals.  (These will not dissolve fast)

Algaefix:  EPA registered algae control for water ponds.  Controls “green water algae”, string algae, and blanket weed.  I found this product more effective w/ green algae than string algae.  I use Algaefix as a maintenance rather than a fast cure.  Remember there is no quick fix in nature!!!  Please be patient with your water gardens.  It normally takes me 6 to 8 weeks to restore the balance of a pond that has turned solid green from algae blooms.
Add:  ½ c to 500 gals (morning only) every 2 weeks if pond is new or if pond has been base cleaned.  After treating for 2 months you can add ½ c each month or when needed. (You can tell by the bright green color of your stones where the water is running.)
 
No Foam: Use this if when adding water treatments, a foam appears at the top of your water near the falls. It only takes a little. 

S.A.B. Extreme: This product seems to be beneficial in treating string algae that will grow in your pond in very hot water temperature.  Safe for fish and plants. 
Add:  3 - T each week if you seen signs of string algae growing on stones in the stream or fall.  3 - T each month when the algae growth slows down.

Fish Food:   If your choice of fish food has at least 35% fish meal protein you are doing great.  Floater or non-floater food works just fine.  I like to see my Koi fish feed so I have the floater type w/ feeding ring.  When temperatures become low in the 40’s and 50’s you will  need to use the Spring / Fall diet food.  This is easier to digest than high energy foods.   Ask your retailer, they will be glad help you decide.  Please DON’T OVER FEED your fish.  This promotes a dirty pond and will need cleaning more often.   Feed your fish enough food that they can eat in no more than 5 minutes,  every other day.  If your pond is new, your fish  will need to be fed more often until the plants and algae grow in the pond body.

I hope this care sheet will help you take care of your pond system more easily.  I do not know all the ins and outs of each of these water treatments, just how I use them in my ponds.  If you have any questions please let me know and I will try to help you.   It is my intent to help you to  maintain an eco-balanced pond by using the products that work.  Please understand that each pond is different just as each customer is different in how and what they have in their ponds environment.  The plant and fish loads, where the pond is located, if there is shade, and many other factors come into play when having and maintaining a pond system.  It is also advised that having at least 35% to 70% of plant coverage on your pond’s surface will help in controlling algae growth, improve fish health,  and provide protection for your fish.

Have a wonderful time with your water feature and if I can help please let me know!

Darryl A Frick,  727-518-5680

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